Cleaning and sealing natural stone pavers requires sweeping, washing with a pH-neutral stone cleaner, allowing 24–48 hours to dry completely, then applying a penetrating sealer in two thin coats. The process takes 2–4 hours for a typical patio and should be repeated every 2–3 years. Using the wrong cleaner (anything acidic) permanently etches and damages natural stone surfaces.
Quick Answer: Clean stone pavers by sweeping debris, applying pH-neutral cleaner diluted 10:1, scrubbing with a stiff brush, then rinsing and allowing 48 hours to dry before applying a penetrating impregnating sealer in two thin coats. Plan 2–4 hours for a 200 sq ft patio. For best results, seal afterward — using the wrong acidic cleaner permanently etches natural stone surfaces.
Using the right tools and products makes the difference between a clean, protected surface and damaged or stained stone. Many household cleaners — vinegar, bleach, citrus-based products — are acidic or caustic and will etch or discolor natural stone. Always use products specifically formulated for natural stone. Here is everything you will need for a complete clean-and-seal job.
pH-neutral natural stone cleaner ($15–$30 per gallon concentrate), stiff nylon scrub brush or push broom, garden hose with adjustable nozzle or pressure washer (under 1,200 PSI), bucket, and rubber gloves. For heavy staining or organic growth (moss, algae), add a stone-safe efflorescence remover or biological treatment ($20–$40).
Penetrating impregnating sealer — silane/siloxane formula — ($35–$80 per gallon, covers 150–300 sqft depending on stone porosity), low-nap paint roller or pump sprayer, clean cotton rags or microfiber towels for wiping excess, and painter’s tape to protect walls or adjacent surfaces.
Oil stain remover / degreaser for driveways ($20–$35), rust remover formulated for stone (not acidic — use oxalic-acid-free products on marble and limestone), grout haze remover for newly grouted pavers, and efflorescence remover for white salt deposits on travertine and concrete-base installations.
Never use vinegar, lemon juice, or any acid-based cleaner on marble, limestone, or travertine — acid etches the surface permanently. Avoid bleach on colored stone or areas with vegetation. Do not use wire brushes, steel wool, or abrasive pads that scratch the surface. Never use generic concrete sealer on natural stone — it forms a surface film that traps moisture and peels.
Thorough cleaning before sealing is not optional — any dirt, oil, staining, or biological growth trapped under the sealer will be locked in permanently. Take the time to clean properly. For a typical 300 sqft patio, plan 3–4 hours for cleaning and allow a full day of drying before sealing. For heavy surface buildup, see our guide to power washing stone pavers before you begin.
Remove all furniture, pots, and decorative items from the paver surface. Sweep away all loose debris — leaves, dirt, sand — using a stiff push broom. Pull any weeds from joints by hand or use a joint tool to clear them out. Blow out joints with compressed air if available. Do not skip this step — loose debris will clog your scrub brush and reduce cleaning effectiveness.
Wet the entire paver surface with a garden hose before applying cleaner. Pre-wetting prevents the cleaner from absorbing too quickly into dry, porous stone and ensures even coverage. In hot weather (above 85°F), work in sections to prevent the cleaner from drying before you can scrub.
Apply your pH-neutral stone cleaner per the manufacturer’s dilution instructions — typically 4:1 to 8:1 water to concentrate for routine cleaning, or full strength for heavy soiling. Work in manageable 50–100 sqft sections. Let the cleaner dwell for 5–10 minutes (do not let it dry). For moss, algae, or mold, use a biological cleaner and allow a longer dwell time of 15–20 minutes.
Scrub the surface vigorously with a stiff nylon brush or deck brush, working cleaner into the pores and joints. Pay extra attention to stained areas, joint edges, and any areas with biological growth. For large patios, a deck brush on an extension handle will save your back. Use straight strokes along the stone grain — avoid circular patterns that leave visible scratch marks.
Rinse the cleaned section thoroughly with clean water, flushing all cleaner and loosened debris away from the surface. Incomplete rinsing leaves a soap residue that interferes with sealer adhesion. If using a pressure washer to rinse, keep the tip at least 12 inches from the surface and use a wide fan tip — no pencil jets that concentrate pressure on one spot.
After general cleaning, address any remaining stains with targeted treatments. For oil and grease: apply a stone-safe degreaser, scrub, and rinse. For rust stains: use a non-acid rust remover specifically formulated for stone. For efflorescence (white salt deposits): use a commercial efflorescence remover per instructions. Allow additional drying time after specialty treatments.
Sealing is the most important maintenance task for natural stone pavers. A proper penetrating sealer does not coat the surface — it soaks in and bonds within the pores to repel water, oil, and staining agents from below the surface. The result is a stone that is easier to clean, more resistant to staining, and protected from freeze-thaw moisture damage. For a full annual care plan beyond sealing, see our stone patio maintenance schedule. Here is how to do it correctly.
This is the most critical rule of sealing: the stone must be completely dry before applying sealer. Allow at least 24 hours after cleaning in dry conditions — 48 hours in humid climates or after heavy cleaning. To test: tape a piece of plastic film over the pavers and check after 1 hour. Condensation under the film means moisture is still present. Sealing damp stone traps moisture and causes the sealer to turn milky-white and fail.
Seal when temperatures are between 50°F and 90°F, the stone is in the shade, and no rain is forecast for 24–48 hours. Avoid sealing in direct hot sun — the sealer evaporates too fast, leaving uneven coverage and lap marks. Morning is the ideal time in most climates. Never seal when frost is expected within 24 hours — freezing temperatures prevent the sealer from curing properly.
Apply the penetrating sealer using a pump garden sprayer or low-nap roller. Work in 4–6 foot wide sections along the length of the patio, keeping a wet edge to avoid lap lines. Apply enough product to wet the surface thoroughly — you should see the stone darken slightly as it absorbs. One gallon of quality impregnating sealer typically covers 150–300 sqft depending on stone porosity.
Approximately 5–15 minutes after applying the first coat, wipe any unabsorbed sealer from the surface with a clean microfiber towel or cotton rag. This is critical: excess sealer that dries on the surface forms a hazy, slippery residue that is very difficult to remove. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific product — some sealers have a shorter window than others.
For highly porous stones (travertine, sandstone, unfilled limestone), a second coat is recommended. Apply the second coat 30–60 minutes after the first, once the initial application has been absorbed but before it fully cures. Follow the same application and excess-wiping process. Denser stones like granite and bluestone typically absorb only a single coat well.
Most penetrating sealers reach light-use cure (foot traffic) in 4–8 hours and full chemical cure in 24–72 hours. Avoid vehicle traffic on sealed driveways for at least 48 hours. Keep the surface dry during cure time. The water-bead test confirms the sealer is working: water should bead and roll off the surface rather than soaking in within 30 seconds of contact.
Not all sealers are the same, and using the wrong type for your stone and application can create more problems than it solves. Homeowners across the US often make the mistake of using a concrete or brick sealer on natural stone — these form surface films that peel and trap moisture. Here is a guide to the main sealer types and what each application needs.
Use the water-bead test year-round to check sealer effectiveness: pour a small amount of water on the stone. If it soaks in within 30 seconds rather than beading, it is time to reseal regardless of how recently the last application was done.
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Get Your Free Quote → Browse Stone Products →Los Angeles homeowners can also contact our team for professional stone cleaning and sealing: see our Los Angeles stone cleaning and sealing service page. For help choosing the right product, read our guide to the best sealers for natural stone pavers.
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